Fabrice Gillotte, art and matter
The man nicknamed "l'Ours" by the profession because he's allergic to worldliness, was the first, in 1991, to win the title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France chocolatier confiseur. Curious and inventive, he entered the competition with a machine that revolutionized the profession.
From his Grand Atelier near Dijon, he continues to work in haute couture style, inspiring the next generation and entertaining peers curious to understand his high-tech methods.
How did you get into chocolate?
Fabrice Gillotte: I grew up surrounded by the smells of Le Parrain Généreux, my father's patisserie. His workshop was my playground. But I couldn't see myself taking over from him - I dreamed of being a graphic designer - until the day he suffered a stroke at the age of 42. I came to help my mother for six months... And I'm still here. back then, chocolate was only eaten at Christmas and Easter, and the same Lenôtre range was everywhere. You have to see how ganaches were worked in the 1980s. It wasn't very nice! When I met chocolatier Robert Linxe, who had a different sensibility, I realized that we could do things differently, and I started to explore the cocoa bean.
How did you come up with the idea of taking the Meilleur Ouvrier de France competition?
F. G. : I'd been fantasizing about the Meilleur Ouvrier de France pastry competition for a long time, admiring chefs like Lucien Peltier in Paris 7ᵉ and Pascal Niau at Dalloyau. When my father, who saw me constantly experimenting, read about the creation of a chocolate and confectionery title, he challenged me. just as well, I'm a bit of a stickler and I wanted to prove that I was one of the best. I was 25 years old. I took the plunge, but I had to brush up on my confectionery skills. I was lucky enough to work with Monsieur Sender. He had been a royal court confectioner and called me "the kid". It was thanks to him that I was able to impress the jury with a fruit puff pastry.
What memories do you have of these three days?
F. G.: Insomnia! Facing these juries of fastidious experts (MOF pastry chefs, renowned professionals) who judge your work, your artistic presentation, and who taste, is crazy intense. The timing is ruthless, down to the minute.
