Contact

37-39 rue Boissière
75016 Paris
France

Phone : 01 41 40 99 80

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5 PHOTOS
Chef Robin Dorgler
Cooking Fusion | Gastronomic | Modern
Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
24 € to 88 €
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Gault&Millau's review
13/20
Chef's Restaurant Nestled on the rural outskirts of Strasbourg, between the rustle of the forest and the rumble of the bypass, this house once devoted to tarte flambée has undergone a remarkable transformation. It now asserts itself as a table of character, supported by a fine, precise and singular cuisine. The decor has been embellished: the veranda overlooking the Ill welcomes guests in a soft light, punctuated by a few jazz notes and the flickering flame of candles. For chef Robin Dorgler, who has traveled from Argentina to Japan via Quebec, the roadmap is clear: priority is given to fusion cuisine. Right from the amuse-bouche, the inspiration is there: cucumber pickles with black sesame, crispy fish with katsuobushi, beet and cashew tartlet. The rest confirms it: hiramasa sashimi, enhanced with Egyptian black lemon, offers a lively, almost austere attack, which we'd like to be just a little more gourmet. The tuna, seared on the brazier, accompanied by wasabi panko and a homemade Tonkatsu sauce, is seductive for its depth and precision. The evening's signature dish, guinea fowl borracho, transports us to Andean heights: discreetly brazier-smoked meat, black corn tortilla, onion pickles, tamed Rocoto salsa, grilled pineapple. A complex, balanced and masterful dish. The dessert, with kalamansi, blood orange and forest honey, rounds off the meal beautifully, despite a slightly firm parfait. In the dining room, the service is sincerely motivated and palpably enthusiastic. Certain explanations could do with a little more clarity, but the desire to accompany guests is clearly present. The wine list, eclectic and open to the world, completes the journey. Miro moves forward. The path isn't clear-cut, but the direction is right. This restaurant, now firmly rooted in its era, shows great promise. If it continues to build with such sincerity, it will be one of the great restaurants of tomorrow.
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Address Rue de la Nachtweid
67540 Ostwald
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Robin Dorgler
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