Bistrot des Rosiers

68000 STRASBOURG

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

BOOK

Cooking French | Traditional

Price Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

20 € to 24 €

Gault&Millau's review

12/20

Gourmet Restaurant Having lost touch since the closure of Comptoir à Manger five years ago, we caught up with Bérengère Pellissard in this minimalist, bohemian bistro in the Krutenau district. From the old address, she has retained the concept of a unique surprise menu, although she has scaled back her ambitions somewhat. Drawing on her experience gained at L'Auberge de l'Ill, Régis and Jacques Marcon and Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in England, the chef knows how to bring out the natural flavour of vegetables, using them with obvious simplicity. A case in point is this squash sublimated in a pressé and purée, enhanced with trout roe with just a little beurre blanc fat for gourmandise and cider for an acidic touch. The house seems to have abandoned the locavore spirit, as evidenced by the monkfish delicately enhanced with Sichuan pepper, even if it's more fun to savor the smoked purée and spinach-tarragon emulsion that accompany it. In every dish, it's the vegetable that plays the role of centerpiece. The slightly firm flesh of the veal is offset by the pleasure of a creamy purée of Jerusalem artichokes and bok choy cabbage. As for the poached pear with Tahitian vanilla, it's flanked by a crunchy almond tuile and a creamy cardamom ice cream. Recommended by Anne-Sophie Barth, the wine list, with its sectarian selection of natural wines, is in tune with this market-garden cuisine.

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