Baux (blancs) de Provence
Representing just 7% of the total volume from just 243 hectares of vines in the Les Baux-de-Provence appellation, white baux are a true rarity. In this magnificent, unspoilt environment, only 11 estates share the vineyards all around the Alpilles. By 2023, the entire appellation will be certified organic. Zoom in on a pearl of the South.
Renowned for its smooth, long-keeping red wines, Baux-de-Provence also produces rosé and a highly aromatic white wine that is quite powerful, but retains a fresh, bitter finish. They are made from Grenache Blanc, Vermentino (also known as Rolle), Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc and Ugni. The rules for blending grape varieties are quite strict and too complicated to explain here. In the specifications - and this is no casual joke - the whites of Baux must be aged until at least April 1st of the following year. These constraints on grape varieties and sales lead many estates to market their white wines as "IGP Alpilles", and contribute to the scarcity of the appellation's whites.
On the table
With notes of ripe fruit, apricot and peach, as well as star anise, honey and even dried fruit, the whites of Les Baux offer true Mediterranean generosity. On the palate, they are the archetypal great southern whites, both rich and round, with a remarkably fresh finish. They go very well with fish and seafood, as well as goat's or ewe's milk cheese. They can also be tried with poultry if cooked with thyme and rosemary, or more simply with a vegetable tian. We had the opportunity to taste some of them with a carpaccio of scallops, radish and mimosa: a perfect match to try at home.
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Château Romanin (1)
AOP Les Baux-de-Provence
White
2020
Beautiful blend of rolle, roussanne, clairette and grenache blanc. A wine with personality. On the nose, first discreet, then more extroverted, it offers notes of white flowers, cut grass and white honey. On the palate, the wine is both generous and sappy, preserving a juicy tangerine edge to great effect. Long, round and very good.
Open as an aperitif or with Mediterranean fish. We're dreaming of braised bass with citrus zest.
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Domaine des Terres Blanches (2)
AOP Les Baux-de-Provence
White
2020
A very young white that already displays powerful, perfectly open aromas of ripe yellow fruit, apricot, citrus peel and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is fresh and dashing, but not at all tense; on the contrary, it offers fatness and voluptuousness. Good now, but will age admirably over three years. A fine presence of mineral bitters on the finish balances the whole. We dream of a fish with character like red mullet. We're seduced by the youthful balance of this wine which, with only a few percent barrel ageing, offers both volume and freshness.
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Domaine de la Vallongue (3)
Cuvée "Garrigues
AOP Les Baux-de-Provence
White
2020
A white wine with clear aromas dominated by white fruits (peach and nectarine), complemented by more exotic notes such as white pineapple and a hint of smoke. The palate reflects this, with well-defined flavors, good mid-palate presence and marked length, despite a touch of warmth on the finish.
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Domaine de Métifiot (4)
Cuvée " Gastronomie
AOP Les Baux-de-Provence
White
2020
Superb. The nose is immediately complex, with aromas of apricot yogurt and freshly cut grass. On the palate, it's a rare roundness, with remarkable fullness and a suavity that's perfectly assumed, right through to the finish with its beautiful bitters. A great success. This young domaine is a real discovery.
As for the IGP Alpilles, Gault&Millau recommends you try the white 2018 from Domaine d'Estoublon, the cuvée "Tradition" 2021 from Mas Sainte Berthe, the cuvée "L'Invitation par Jean-André Charial" 2020 from Baumanière, the "Coin Caché" 2019 from Mas de la Dame, and the Mas de Gourgonnier 2021.
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