Pike

David Degoursy & Jeanne Satori | 2/2/23

A traditional dish enhanced with excellence. That's the promise of Jeanne Satori and David Degoursy, the owners of De:ja, who have revisited the pike quenelle in a refined version coated in a creamy sauce.

Serves 6

Preparation time: 45 min

Cooking time: 30 min

Panade

4 egg yolks
85 g flour
8 cl milk
80 g butter

Fine pike stuffing

360 g pike
4 egg whites
12 cl crème fraîche
10 g salt
1 bunch lovage
1 bunch parsley
1 bunch mustard shoots (optional)
2 g pepper
1 g saffron

Stuffing for quenelle

360 g breadcrumbs
Thin stuffing
30 g trout egg

Sauce

10 cl cream
30 g butter
1 bunch lovage
1 tsp honey vinegar
3 tbsp. vegetable stock
salt and pepper

Seasoning

Dried pike eggs (or fleur de sel)
Pepper
30 snails
Vegetable stock
Butte r

1 - Prepare the panade: heat the butter, 8 cl water and milk to a simmer. Remove from the heat, then add the flour, stirring vigorously (the texture should be smooth), then return to medium heat to dry out the mixture (approx. 2 min). Whisk the mixture until it reaches 43°C, then add the egg yolks. Leave to stand.

2 - Prepare the fine stuffing: make a chlorophyll by placing the lovage, parsley and mustard sprouts in boiling water, remove after 10 seconds, then plunge into iced water to cool. Place the pike stuffing, egg whites, cream, salt, pepper, saffron and cooled chlorophyll in a blender. Blend until smooth. Then pass through a sieve.

3 - Prepare the stuffing: mix the breadcrumbs with the fine stuffing and trout roe until smooth.

4 - Make the quenelles: use 2 spoons to make the quenelles, then boil in 15% salted water. Cook for 4 to 6 min. Set aside in iced water.

5 - Make the sauce: prepare a chlorophyll by placing the lovage bunch in boiling water, then remove after 10 seconds and cool in iced water. Reduce the vegetable stock, then add the cream and reduce again with the honey vinegar. Add the butter and chlorophyll over a low heat to maintain a smooth texture and color. Season to taste.

6 - Finishing: reheat the quenelles with the snails in the butter and a little stock, create a pretty glaze, and season with dried pike roe (or fleur de sel) and pepper.

7 - Presentation: arrange the elements attractively, then pour over the sauce.

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